POST 14: Orange bike- front wheel bearings

I was disappointed to find that the front wheel was very stiff to rotate and the bearings clearly needed attention. I took some pics left and right before removing- note spacer and castellated nut on rhs.


Castellated nut on the lhs of the front wheel. Split pin to secure


Rhs of front wheel


I removed the crosshead screw and slipped the speedo cable out. The brake adjuster was slackened and the cable detached.


Brake and speedo cables detached


Stripping was quite straight forward-  Disconnect the brake and speedo cables, then remove the split pin and castellated nut. Finally  tap the spindle out towards the left- catching the spacer as it drops free.




Lift out the brake plate and speedo drive unit complete with brake shoes to reveal the bearing. Remove the oil seal from the hub on the lhs. Usually I would tap the bearing out from the opposite side, but in this case there was no obvious ridge to tap on so I used a blind bearing puller.

Extracting the wheel bearing using a slide hammer and blind bearing puller.

Once the bearing was out I could remove the central spacer and tap the second bearing out from this side.

Spacer from the wheel centre

The bearings were both stiff- in each case one of the shields had been removed to open the bearing up to grease from inside the spindle cavity- however there was no grease in that location! The bearings were very dry and the remaining grease was hard and solid. I refitted a 6200 double shielded bearing on both sides of the wheel.

The brake plate was in good condition and the arm moved freely. I scraped what I could of the hard dry grease from the speedo mechanism, and then added some fresh grease before reassembling. I had removed and lubed the speedo cable but found that the crimp had failed at the speedo end which was consequently disconnected. I re-crimped that so it could be attached to the speedo. Finally, I reconnected all cables at the wheel end. The speedo now worked!  Adjusting the brake used virtually all of the adjuster thread. Since the linings were quite thick, I assume that the operating arm has been refitted in the wrong position by a PO. I will check that when I next have to remove the wheel. For the time being I could achieve adequate adjustment using the cable screw so I opted to continue with the rebuild.




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